A Grand Canyon

Wanna feel small?  Then go to the Grand Canyon, a gaping crevice formed by the Colorado River over millions of years.  This geological marvel is a layer-by-layer history of North America, and while that's impressive in itself, you'll probably spend most of your time gawking into this expansive landscape and its colors and shapes.  The play of shadow and light over the Grand Canyon, to say nothing of the mighty afternoon thunderstorms that visit this area, are truly something to behold.  Below are a few suggestions to make your visit even more special.

Where to stay:  The El Tovar Hotel provides rustic elegance a stone's throw away from the Grand Canyon.  One of the early stops for the Santa Fe Railroad, the hotel boasts a comfortable lobby done in cowboy chic, although you might prefer to spend your time on the outdoor veranda (rockers graciously provided) or in the lobby lounge (angle for a table on the back porch, the better to catch a view of those afternoon thunderstorms).  Rooms at the El Tovar are spacious and well amenitized, but face it, you'll spend most of your time outdoors here.  That said, the El Tovar's location can't be beat.  The El Tovar Hotel is a National Park Lodge located on the South Rim.  Rates for a double room are $114-$171.  Reserve as far ahead as possible.

Where to eat:  Not far to go for a good meal if you're staying at the El Tovar:  the hotel's Dining Room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and the evening meal is a real treat.  Cuisine here is Southwestern in feel and draws heavily from the flavors of the region.  Begin your meal with the smoked corn chowder with Asiago cheese and continue on to the New York strip or the unique baked blue cornmeal-crusted salmon with a roasted corn tomatillo salsa.  Dessert?  Chocolate mousse and some cooing in this romantically-lit room.  If you're in the mood for something simple and light, head over to the cafeteria at the Yavapai Lodge .

What to do:  Got film? binoculars?  Then you're pretty much set.  The Grand Canyon is begging to be ogled, a canvas of orange, purple and blue and other hues too numerous to mention.  Best views may be from Mather Point and Yavapai Point, and while both will undoubtedly be busy, the views are worth the effort.  As well, take the shuttle along West Rim Drive, an eight-mile road which takes you from the Grand Canyon Village out to Hermit's Rest.  You can stop along the way and ponder the great expanse, then hop back on the shuttle when you're ready.  If you're feeling sporting, take a day hike along the Bright Angel Trail (closed as of this writing due to storm damage; expected reopening is late July '99).  The South Kaibab Trail is a bit more strenuous and should be reserved for those in excellent hiking condition.  Finally, if you've got time on your hands, take a mule or horseback ride down to the canyon floor.  Overnight accommodations are available at Phantom Ranch, the only lodging in the canyon itself (reserve well in advance).

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